INTRODUCTION:

Hair is one of the defining characteristics of mammals. Hair is a protein filament that grows from follicles found in the dermis, which is derived from Ectoderm of the skin¹. Hairs are the integral part of human beauty. Scientific name of hair is pili or pilus. Hair is a component of the integumentary system and extends downward into the dermal layer where it sits in the hair follicle. The presence of hair is a primary differentiator of mammals as a unique class of organisms. In humans, it is a cherished and highly visible indicator of health, youth, and even class.

It has a sensory function, protects from cold and UV radiation, and can have a significant psychological impact when its growth or structure is deranged. At a microscopic level, the variety in length, colour, diameter, and cross-sectional shape of each hair creates the characteristic profiles seen across ethnic groups and among individuals.¹

Hair Anatomy:

Hair grows from hair follicles situated within the fatty layer of the scalp. Contrary to the popular belief that hair grows as single strands, hair follicles actually grow in groups of 1-4 hairs called “follicular units”. At the base of each hair follicle is a hair bulb where the growth mechanism for producing hair occurs. Hair follicles get their nourishment from the blood vessels within the dermis. The cells divide and develop to produce the hair shaft. While the hair is still developing underneath the epidermis, it maintains a soft form. Once the pushes past the epidermis, its outside layer hardens into keratin.²

Fig no. 1.1: Hair anatomy

Parts of the Hair:

Dermal papillae: The dermal papilla is responsible for regulating the hair cycle and hair growth, and is also comprised of androgen receptors that are sensitive to the presence of DHT.

Matrix: The matrix surrounds the dermal papillae and contains all the active cells needed for hair growth and for the development of the different parts of the hair, particularly the outer root sheath, the inner root sheath and the hair shaft. Combined, the matrix and the dermal papillae make up the hair bulb.³

Outer root sheath: The outer root sheath, or trichelemma, is the outermost part of the hair and is keratinized. It covers the entire hair follicle inside the dermis and then transitions through to the epidermis, providing the hair follicle with an opening from which to surface from.

Inner root sheath: inner root sheath is comprised of three parts: the Henley layer, Huxley layer, and cuticle. The Henley’s and Huxley’s layers are capsular layers that anchor onto each other with the purpose of stabilizing the hair. The cuticle, which is the innermost part that it closest to the hair shaft, is made from dead hardened cells and give the hair shaft added protection. This, together with the capsular layers that make up the Henley’s and Huxley’s layers, secures the hair and allows it to grow in length.²

Hair shaft: The hair shaft is the solitary part of the hair follicle that fully exits the surface of the skin. The hair shaft is made up of three layers: the medulla, cortex, and the cuticle.

· The medulla is described as an unsystematic and unstructured area located in the innermost region of the hair shaft and is not always present.

· The cortex, in contrast to the medulla, is highly structured and organized. The cortex is made up of keratin and is responsible for giving hair its strength and durability, as well as its water uptake. The cortex also contains melanin and determines the colour of hair based on the number, distribution and types of melanin granules present.

· The cuticle is the hair’s outer protective layer and is connected to the internal root sheath. It is a complex structure with a single molecular layer of lipids that helps hair repel water.^4,5

Problems related to Hair:

Dandruff, Dry hair, Split ends, Oily hair, Frizzy hair, Limp hair, Hair loss, Heat damage, Colour damage, Grey hair

Dandruff:

Dandruff is one of the most common dermatological skin conditions and chronic non-inflammatory conditions of the scalp, which is characterized by excessive scaling of scalp tissue. Dandruff is caused by a fungus called Malassezia restricta and Malassezia golbosa, commonly called pityrosporum, which causes infection to the skin and scalp. The growth of Malassezia mainly occurs during the warm and humid atmosphere, overcrowding and poor personal hygiene. It is a harmless, chronic condition that occurs when the scalp becomes dry or greasy and produces white flakes of dead skin that appear in the hair or on the shoulders. Although it is harmless, dandruff can be embarrassing for those who have it Skin cells are formed continuously on the scalp, so the shedding of the dead skin cells is normal process. With dandruff, however skin cells are shed at a faster rate than normal. Oil from the scalp causes the skin cells to clump together and appear as white flakes.⁶

Causes of Dandruff:

Dry skin, Irritated, oily skin, Not shampooing often enough, Eczema, Psoriasis, Seborrheic dermatitis, Malassezia yeast like fungus, Sensitivity to hair products (contact dermatitis)

Shampoos:

Shampoo is a preparation of a surfactant (Surface active agents) in a suitable form – liquids, solid or powder – which when used under specified conditions will remove surface, grease, dirt and skin debris from the hair and scalp without adversely affecting the user.⁷

Herbal shampoos:^7,8

Herbal shampoos are cosmetic preparations with the use of traditional Ayurvedic knowledge that helps for cleansing the hair and scalp just like regular shampoo. They are mainly used for the removal of oils, dandruff, dirt, environmental pollutions, etc. The herbal shampoo is a cosmetic preparation in which herbs are collected from plants and it is likely a regular shampoo that is usually meant for washing the hair and scalp. Now a day’s herbals help people in building their good health with the help of natural sources. This is because people found the benefits of herbs in the cosmetic products which they used daily. The realization and essential for cosmetics using herbs are raised because it is believed that these preparations are safe, pure, effective and cheap in cost.

Advantages of herbal shampoos:

· It is pure and it involves organic ingredients.

· Free from side effects.

· There is no use of synthetic additives.

· No use of petroleum-based ingredients.

· It is skin friendly.

Demerits of synthetic shampoos:

· The artificial additives used in synthetic shampoos can cause signification irritation to sensitive people.

· It leads to toxicity in the nervous system and even cancer.

· The active ingredients used in synthetic shampoos can cause headache, nausea, dizziness, and sometimes it causes vomiting.

Mode of action of shampoo:⁹

Fig. No. 1.2: Mode of action of shampoo

Curry Leaves:¹²

Murraya koneigii (Curry Leaves /KadhiPatta /MithaNimba /Giri Nimba) is one such medicinally important herb which is widely used as spice, condiments and also used to treat various diseases in India. It is a staple in Indian dishes and is well known for its subtle flavor and used confidently in daily cooking. Curry leaves contain many important ingredients like carbohydrates, proteins, fibers, calcium, phosphorus, iron, magnesium, copper, minerals and vitamins like nicotinic acid, vitamin B, C, A and E, antioxidants, plant sterols, glycosides and flavonoids. The oil is used externally for bruises, eruption, in soap and perfume industry.

Fig. No. 1.3: Curry leaves

Mint:¹³

Mint consists of the dried leaves and flowering tops of Mentha piperita (peppermint) belonging to the family Lamiaceae. Peppermint has a high menthol content. The essential oil also contains menthone and carboxyl esters, particularly menthyl acetate. Dried peppermint typically has 0.3–0.4% of volatile oil containing menthol (7–48%), menthone (20–46%), menthyl acetate (3–10%), menthofuran (1–17%), and 1, 8-cineol (3–6%).

Peppermint oil also contains small amounts of many additional compounds including limonene, pulegone, caryophyllene, and pinene Mint Helps In preventing Hair Loss. As mint improves the blood circulation in the scalp, it helps improve hair growth.

Fig.no. 1.4: Mint leaves

Hibiscus:^10,14

It is a flowering plant of genus Hibiscus rosa sinesis belonging to family, Malvaceae. Hibiscus rosa-sinensis contained tannins, anthraquinones, quinines, phenols, flavanoides, alkaloids, terpenoids, saponins, cardiac glycosides, protein, free amino acids, and carbohydrates, reducing sugars, mucilage, essential oils and steroids. The amino acids (Keratin) in Hibiscus make it an excellent conditioner. Hibiscus nourishes the hair follicles, soften the hair and make it more manageable. Hibiscus naturally sealing the moisture on the shafts of hair and making it smooth and silky.

Fig. No. 1.5: Hibiscus flower

MATERIAL AND METHODS:

The materials used in the present research work either AR/LR grade or the list of chemicals and equipment are given below:

Table No. 1: Formulation of Polyherbal Antidandruff Shampoo

Ingredients	F1	F2	F3	F4
Curry leaves extract	4ml	4ml	4ml	4ml
Mint extract	2ml	2ml	2ml	2ml
Hibiscus extract	1ml	1ml	1ml	1ml
SLS	10gm	10gm	10gm	10gm
Sodium citrate	0.5gm	1gm	1gm	0.5gm
HPMC K-100	4gm	5gm	4gm	5gm
Glycerin	5gm	5gm	5gm	5gm
Methyl paraben	0.18gm	0.18gm	0.18gm	0.18gm
Propyl paraben	0.02gm	0.02gm	0.02gm	0.02gm
Tea tree oil	qs	qs	qs	qs
Distilled water upto	100ml	100ml	100ml	100ml

The drug andexcipients of LR/AR grade were obtained from standard sources. Precision equipment sourced from standard manufactures were used.

Method of preparation of herbal extract:²⁰

· The cold maceration process is used for prepration of herbal extract.

· The collected plants of Murraya koenigii, Mentha piperita and Hibiscus rosa sinesis. The Curry leaves, Mint leaves and flower petals of Hibiscus are taken and washed with water and dried under sunlight for three successive days after that coarsely powdered the dried material separately.

· 10 grams of coarsely powdered leaves and flower petals of plants were soaked in 200 ml of methanol and kept for maceration separately for about 3-4 days with occasional shaking. After maceration the extract is filtered and the filtrate was collected and the extract is used for making shampoo formulation.

Method of preparation of Polyherbal Antidandruff Shampoo:

1. Weigh all the ingredients.

2. Dissolve SLS in 75% of distilled water.

3. Add methyl and propyl paraben and glycerine to the above prepared solution.

4. Add perfume to the preparation.

5. Disperse HPMC in the above solution with continuous stirring for 20 min at 60^oC.

6. Cool the preparation.

7. Add the plant extracts.

8. Add the distilled water upto required volume.

RESULT AND DISCUSSION:

The prepared formulation was evaluated for product performance which includes organoleptic characters, clarity, pH, physicochemical characterization, and for solid content. To guarantee the nature of the items, particular tests were performed for foam volume, foam stability, wetting time and antidandruff activity using standard protocol.

1. Organoleptic characteristics:

The formulations were visually inspected and the colour, odor of each formulation was noted and recorded.²¹

Table No. 1: Organoleptic characteristics

Sr. No.	Formulation	Colour	Odour	Clarity
1.	F1	Green	Pleasant	Opaque
2.	F2	Green	Pleasant	Opaque
3.	F3	Green	Pleasant	Opaque
4.	F4	Green	Pleasant	Opaque

2. pH:

The pH of the prepared herbal shampoo in distilled water (10% v/v) was evaluated by means of pH analyser at room temperature. The pH of the prepared solution of shampoo using distilled water (10%) was evaluated at 25°C temperature. For enhancing and improving the hair quality, pH of the shampoo is very important and also for stabilizing the scalp and minimizing irritation to the eyes. For minimizing the damage of hair using shampoo, one of the ways in the present trend is to develop shampoos having lower pH value. Lowering of pH (mild acidity) promotes tightening of the scales and prevents swelling.^22,23

Table No. 2: pH determination

Sr. No.	Formulation	Observation
1.	F1	6.92
2.	F2	6.90
3.	F3	6.89
4.	F4	6.93

3. Spreadability:

The spreadability of shampoo was determined by the wooden block and glass slide instrument on which two glass slide were placed. By placing 0.5gm of shampoo sample within a circle of 1 diameter pre-marked on a glass slide over which a second glass slide was placed. A weight of 50 gm was tied to the upper glass slide. Spreading time and length was calculated by using distance of shampoo run on upper glass slide.²⁴ Spreadability was determined according to the formula:

S= M x

Where: S = Spreadability expressed in mg.cm.sec^-1.

M = Weight/Volumes tide to upper slide (mg)

L = Length of glass slide

t = Time taken to separate the slide completely from each other

Table No. 3: spread ability determination

Sr.no.	Formulation	Sreadability (mg.cm.sec^-1)
1.	F1	13.87
2.	F2	10.14
3.	F3	14.60
4.	F4	14.92

4. Dirt dispersion:

Two drops of herbal shampoo were added in a wide mouthed falcon tube containing 10ml of distilled water. 1 drop of India ink was added, the falcon tube was covered and shaken for ten times. The amount of ink in the foam was estimated as None, Light, Moderate, or Heavy.²⁵

Table No. 4: Dirt dispersion determination

Sr. No.	Formulation	Dirt dispersion
1.	F1	None
2.	F2	None
3.	F3	None
4.	F4	None

5. Foaming ability:

The cylinder shake method was used for determining foaming ability. Foaming ability was determined by shaking 20 ml of 1% formulated shampoo solution for 10 times in a measuring cylinder. The total volume of the foam content after 1 min of shaking was recorded.²⁶

Table No. 5: foam height determination

Sr. No.	Formulation	Foam height
1.	F1	40 ml
2.	F2	42 ml
3.	F3	45 ml
4.	F4	44 ml

6. Foam stability:

The cylinder shake method was used for determining foaming stability. Foaming stability was determined by shaking 20 ml of 1% formulated shampoo solution for 10 times in a measuring cylinder. Foam stability was evaluated by recording the foam volume after 1 minute and 4 minute of shake test.²⁷

Table No. 6: foam stability determination

Sr. No.	Formulation	Foam stability
Sr. No.	Formulation	After 1 min	After 4min
1.	F1	40 ml	37 ml
2.	F2	42 ml	40 ml
3.	F3	45 ml	42 ml
4.	F4	44 ml	40 ml

7. Percent of solids contents:

A clean dry evaporating dish was weighed and added 4 grams of shampoo to the evaporating dish. The dish and shampoo was weighed. The exact weight of the shampoo was calculated only and put the evaporating dish with shampoo was placed on the hot plate until the liquid portion was evaporated. The weight of the shampoo only (solids) after drying was calculated.²⁸

Table No. 7: % solid content determination

Sr.no.	Formulation	% solid content w/w
1.	F1	20.10
2.	F2	22.42
3.	F3	21.25
4.	F4	21.57

8. Wetting time:

The canvas was cut into 1-inch diameter discs having an average weight of 0.44g. The disc was floated on the surface of shampoo solution 1%w/v and the stopwatch started. The time required for the disc to begin to sink was measured accurately and noted as wetting time.²⁹

Table No. 8: Wetting time determination

Sr.no.	Formulation	Wetting time (sec)
1.	F1	14
2.	F2	15
3.	F3	13
4.	F4	12

9. Determination of viscosity:

Viscosity is one of the important testing parameter for liquids and semisolid preparations to predict the flow nature. It also has a vital role in the packaging system suitability for the preparations. The viscous nature of the preparations can give an idea of flow pattern for their usage. Brookfield Viscometer DV2 (LV DV- II + PRO MODEL) was used for the determination of viscosity of the formulations. The sample was taken for analysis by using spindle no. 61 at 10 and 5 rpm. The viscosity was measured in cps.³⁰

Table No. 9: Viscosity determination

Sr. No.	Formulation	Viscosity in CPS
		At 5 rpm	At 10 rpm
1.	F1	57.6	41
2.	F2	81.7	64.5
3.	F3	64	48
4.	F4	69	52

11. Antidandruff activity:

Cup plate method was used for determining the antidandruff activity of shampoo. It was carried out by employing culture of fungi Canadida albicans in sabourad dextrose agar medium. The medium was poured into petri plate which was sterilized in autoclave. At room temperature, Petri plate is allowed to solidify. The organism was inoculated using loop and was spreaded using glass spreader. In each petri plate 4 wells were made using sterile cork borer, two was treated with formulation and two for extract. The plates were incubated at 20-25 °C. After incubation, plates were observed for zone of inhibition. The diameter of zone of inhibition was measured using ruler and compared with standard and recorded in mm.^1,31

Table no 11: Antifungal activity determination

Antifungal activity	Curry leaves Extract	Formulation
	Zone of inhibition	Zone of inhibition
F1	12mm	8mm
F2	13mm	10mm
F3	11mm	8mm
F4	12mm	9mm

CONCLUSION:

The formulation of Anti-dandruff hair shampoo provides a method for treating a scalp dandruff or seborrheic dermatitis. Herbal antidandruff hair shampoo containing Curry leaves, Mint, Hibiscus extract with sodium lauryl sulphate base could be used as an effective in treatment of Dandruff on scalp. After all evaluation of the formulation F3 shows good results, amongs all the formulation so it was selected. From the results obtained of current study it can be concluded that herbal shampoos will be better eco-friendly alternatives with cost effective manner over synthetic shampoos. Finally, we hope that the present investigation can be a better reference for people and researchers working on hair care cosmetic products.

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Received on 05.09.2023 Revised on 17.01.2024

Accepted on 20.06.2024 Published on 05.12.2024

Available online on December 28, 2024

Research J. Topical and Cosmetic Sci. 2024; 15(2):63-69.

DOI: 10.52711/2321-5844.2024.00011